Magic of Marsannay 2017, plus a Grand Cru that's singing

 

In a nutshell – today is red Burgundy for insiders.  These are the Burgs I drink.

 

Just the very best vineyards from top Domaines made by the most renowned local winemakers.  It is a simple formula of serious Burgundy:  Precise, light-footed, sappy brightness, balanced.  All made by deft hands and at pretty prices.  You will become MARSANNAY fans, after enjoying each of these brilliant bottles – that is my promise.  (The top vineyards are Clos du Roy where we include 2 bottles and Les Longeroies with another 2 bottles, plus the tiny gem of Les Favieres with a single, age-worthy bottle.)  Finally, we popped in a Grand Cru too, a great Ruchottes Chambertin 2014 from Frederic Esmonin.  At ten years on, its singing.   Altogether, a fine array of brilliant Burgundy!

 

Here is the inside track on these 6 stars:

 

 

CHARLES AUDOIN

 

When Burgundy expert Allen Meadows says of a producer that their wines “offer almost unmatched value in the context of what is typical in the Côte de Nuits today” and William Kelly says they “stand just as proudly among the grander villages and premiers crus of the Côte de Nuits,” it’s time to take serious notice!   For Meadows, Audoin is “is producing some of the best wines from Marsannay and even with his impressive track record […] they still sell for very reasonable prices.”

 

CHARLOPIN TISSIER

 

This is the Burgundy for insiders. Yann Charlopin, a rare find, was introduced to us by Jean-Marie Fourrier (the two are great mates) and Yann has the same winemaking philosophy – let the fruit shine, don’t over-extract and don’t cover the wine in a duvet of lumber!  The young domaine which just got its start in 2013 with only 1.1 hectares of vines is the child of husband and wife Yann Charlopin and Justine Tissier. The couple now hold just over 4 hectares of vines in Bourgogne, Côte de Nuits-Villages, Marsannay, Gevrey Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne Romanée, and Pernand-Vergelesses. Inspired by the elegant wines of his mentor Jean-Marie Fourrier, the wines of Domaine Charlopin Tissier are pure wines of elegance and finesse.

Allen Meadows, Burghound:   ‘This is a very impressive debut.’  Wine Spectator:  ‘These are exactly the type of Côte d’Or Pinot we are all seeking; a beautifully-made bottle of wine, that’s lip-smacking delicious young but will age gracefully … and, importantly …. at not ridiculous money!’

 

MORTET

 

 Like many Domaines in Burgundy, it all starts in the vineyards. Every step is taken to ensure that they produce the finest, ripest fruit possible in order to create the style of wine designed by Denis; a wine that can be drunk young or old, a wine with finesse and style yet also possessing weight and opulence. The Domaine’s 10 hectares include 14 different appellations, including two grands crus in Clos de Vougeot and Chambertin. Based on the quality of the latest vintages it is evident that Arnaud has firmly taken over the quality reins from his father and is pushing this address to new exciting heights.  The wines are now achieving the minerality and elegance (and seemingly without sacrificing weight) that Denis sought.  Neil Martin – ‘Often spellbinding creations, thrilling wines that instantly seduce with their seamless texture, filigree tannins and beguiling purity of fruit.’

 

RENE BOUVIER

 

Clos du Roy has enjoyed a kingly reputation ever since the dukes of Burgundy, residing in nearby Dijon, sang, documented, and drank in its virtues. A gentle slope with rich clay and limestone soil and perfect exposition, it is one of Burgundy’s better-kept secrets. Bouvier fashions a red from his parcel here that is at once serious and gay, generous and firm, bold and elegant. This full-bodied wine has the stuffing and structure to stand up to wild game, along with the freshness and vitality to pair it with much lighter fare.

 

PIERRE-OLIVIER GARCIA

 

He pioneered ‘baie par baie’, or ‘berry by berry’, a painstaking process involving hand-cutting each grape from the bunch with the stalk intact. This technique takes 30 people an entire day to complete a single barrel, yet Pierre-Olivier perseveres with the practice as it enhances aroma and complexity in the finished wine. This tiny address in Nuits-Saint-Georges already has a cult following and a bright future ahead.  The ‘Clos du Roy’ vineyard is the northernmost site in Marsonnay. As a ‘clos’, it is surrounded by a stone wall which retains the heat and helps to ripen the grapes. The vines are planted on a light gravel deposit that lies on a bed of limestone and marl, lending the wine an expressive mineral tension and powerful intensity.

 

FREDERIC ESMONIN 

 

Critics agree that it is the balance and complexity that make Domaine Frédéric Esmonin stand out. Clive Coates, from the Cote d’Or, writes ‘The wines are rich in colour, virile, profound and concentrated.’ Likewise, Remington Norman, MW, wrote in The Great Domaines of Burgundy, ‘Together, André and Frédéric have propelled their Domaine into the upper échelons of Gevrey quality.’ The wonderful vineyards are still managed by Frederic’s father, Andre, who was bottling quality reds here long before the fashion for domaine bottled burgundy took off.

 

 

 

VINTAGE 2017

 

John Gilman – Flirtatious & pretty.  Never enough; bring it on!   BBR – elegant, fresh with delicate red fruit and gorgeous transparency.   Wine Spectator - Balanced, fresh and approachable wines, tremendous purity.

  

 

Today’s 6-pack offer:  Comprises single bottles of each thrilling wine below. Drinking perfectly now, enjoy now or over the next few years.  You will be delighted!   The attached notes offer full information.

 

 

• Charles Audoin Les Favières, Marsannay 2017.      

Allen Meadows, Burghound -  *Outstanding Top value*.  “This is a consistently excellent wine from Audoin and 2017 will not break that string with its beautifully layered array of red and dark cherry, spice, plum and violet scents. There is better density and excellent punch to the stony, racy, focused and notably more complex flavors that also display a touch of youthful austerity on the chalky finish. Excellent quality & worth your interest. 93/100        

 

• Charlopin Tissier Les Longerois, Marsannay 2017.

Cellartracker 2022 - Perfumed nose of rose petals, herbes de Provence, spicy pepper, sappy red berries, hint of mineral and salty.  Impeccable elegance, exquisite balance, made by a master of Pinot. 94/100

 

• Denis Mortet Les Longerois, Marsannay 2017. 

Decanter - Mortet uses two parcels - one old, the other planted with Pinot Fin clones in 1992 - for this forward, juicy, crowd-pleasing Marsannay that's a great value introduction to his winemaking talents. Lightly wooded, it's all about texture, pleasure and juicy bramble and raspberry fruit. 92/100              

 

• Rene Bouvier Clos du Roi, Marsannay 2017.

Cellartracker 2023 - Bright cherry red. Very pure nose of fresh red berries/cherry supported by a sappy element. A hint of spice as well but no greenness. Fleshy, brilliantly clean and fresh on the palate. Balanced, long finish. Good acid balance. Drinking very well now.  93/100

 

• Pierre-Olivier Garcia Clos du Roi, Marsannay 2017.              

Jancis Robinson MW - Pure crimson fruit with quite a bit of energy and potential. Displays perfumed aromas of crunchy red fruits and violets. The palate is energetic and tightly wound with precise fruit, beautifully balanced with supple tannins and fresh acidity.  17/20              

 

• Esmonin Grand cru Ruchottes Chambertin 2014       

Jancis Robinson MW - Dust, clove and earth, black cherry and dried herbs. Juicy cranberries, lots of wet stones, fairly firm, but very fine tannins. Great length. Will become a glorious, graceful wine with some cellaring. 18/20  

 

 

Special offer terms:

We have just 5 cases on offer today at  R10 900 each.  The first 2 cases can be yours for only R9 950 each, saving you a handsome R950.  (Current landed cost R12 900.)